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Jeremy Cherfas

2020-05-09

1 min read

I'm not saying I agree with absolutely everything in these two articles, but The Economist has an Editorial and a Briefing on what it calls "the global food supply chain" and "the world's food system". They make for interesting reading.

Spoiler: The Economist doesn't think it's broken.

Jeremy Cherfas

I’ve been getting myself in a right old muddle about taste lately. Not music or architecture -- well, not entirely -- but gustatory taste, the taste of food. Of course, we all acknowledge that taste is subjective. 1/6

Jeremy Cherfas

Untitled

In the latest episode, the incomparable Darra Goldstein tells me about her search for "the true heart of Russian food" and also about some of the surprising rediscoveries and innovations in the foodways of modern Russia.

Listen at https://eatthispodcast.com/russian-food

Jeremy Cherfas

Why can’t food scientists and nutritionists be friends?

For one thing, it's a lot easier to call yourself a "nutritionist". Then again, where do food scientists work except in industry, or training more food scientists?

Jeremy Cherfas

I do not believe that consumers are the main beneficiaries of recent trends in the centralisation and industrialisation of food production. Convenient, perhaps, but safe and affordable? At what price?

Jeremy Cherfas

The big problem with the “all food is processed” and “everything is a chemical” arguments is that they fail to speak the same language as the people for whom “processed” and “chemical” have other meanings. I prefer to ask who benefits from the processing and the chemicals.

Jeremy Cherfas

Where to push for greater food safety as food supply systems change is such a difficult question, as discussed in my podcast with Shirley Tarawali and Delia Grace @ILRI https://www.eatthispodcast.com/in-praise-of-meat-milk-and-eggs/

Jeremy Cherfas

TIL that there is such a thing as a non-food interpretation of 🌮

Jeremy Cherfas

Replied to a post on micro.blog :

Thanks. That's a very small part of his argument, and we've just had another good chat in which I asked specifically whether the UK could exclude or tax food imports. He said, absolutely. Look at Japan. Food is a strategic issue and outside the WTO. My fear remains that after Brexit there still won't be good food system policies.





Jeremy Cherfas

Jeremy Cherfas

Maybe it is because I had already noted a Washington Post piece about "real" food people ignoring the Magnolia cookbook, but I found Grant McCracken's piece about Martha Stewart doing the same so trenchant and also so sad. http://web.archive.org/web/20190514114829/https://medium.com/@grant27/martha-stewart-the-old-guard-d...

Jeremy Cherfas

Jeremy Cherfas

2019-04-15

1 min read

'Debatable' List Of '100 Most Jewish' Foods Leaves Plenty Of Room For Kibbitzing in The Salt is an interesting review. Makes me want to read the book. Also makes me want to promote today's episode about one Jewish food and one arguably Christian food. Coming in a couple of hours.

Jeremy Cherfas

2019-04-12

1 min read

People in NYC probably already know of this astonishing resource but in case you don't, or are just visiting, you should.

https://www.eatingintranslation.com/2019/04/new-york-area-food-events-april-11-18.html

Jeremy Cherfas

Jeremy Cherfas

How Big Beer’s Fight Over Corn Syrup Explains American Brewing Today

Interesting piece from Tom Philpott at Mother Jones, pointing out that ALL the big brewers use additional sources of food for their yeasts. Some use corn, some use rice. A pox on all of them.

Jeremy Cherfas

The research agenda we really need

Colin Tudge at the Campaign for Real Farming points up just a few of the ways in which the current approach to research into food and food production lets us all down.

Jeremy Cherfas

Jeremy Cherfas

"Our Hidden Wound | The Contrary Farmer"

On World Food Day, so delighted to see this piece from Gene Logsden pop up in my feed.

https://thecontraryfarmer.wordpress.com/2018/10/15/our-hidden-wound-2/

 

Jeremy Cherfas

Jeremy Cherfas

Cornell's Brian Wansink: A Crisis in Food Science

Not the most important point in the article, but an important point:

Wansink’s sense for harnessing buzz may have been a skill in the wrong domain. He’s a camera-friendly performer who might’ve done very well as a Bill Nye– or Neil deGrasse Tyson–type infotainer, in an industry where simplification to build a compelling narrative is not a bug but a feature, given the explicit mission to deliver an attention-grabbing-and-holding product to an audience.

Jeremy Cherfas

Had an amazing nine-course tasting menu last night at The Edinburgh Food Studio. Photos would have ruined the experience. From the single radish to begin to the dram of Old Perth 1996 to finish it was a delight for eyes, nose and mouth. Superb all round.

Jeremy Cherfas

Jeremy Cherfas

Jeremy Cherfas

Jeremy Cherfas

Jeremy Cherfas

2018-06-11

1 min read

It's all about power. Where the Dublin Gastronomy Symposium leads, the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cooking and the Agricultural History Society follow.

Jeremy Cherfas

Jeremy Cherfas

Jeremy Cherfas

‘Consider flour as flavour’: Bakers turn to whole grains to give their baked goods a boost

“Folks in the 60s and 70s didn’t know how to work with whole grains, and were getting super gritty and dense baked goods,” says Kaufmann. For many in the counterculture, eating these brick-like baked goods was an anti-authority act unto itself. “You were committed to the idealism behind baking whole wheat bread, even if that meant retraining your palate to enjoy it.”

Refusing my mother's wholewheat quiche was the anti-authority act here.

Jeremy Cherfas

Jeremy Cherfas

Airlines and Airports – The Brooks Review

This one is really interesting, and had never occurred to me. Not that I have much choice when changing continents.

PROPERLY BREAKING UP A FLIGHT JOURNEY

Simple rule, I’ve learned the hard way: 2 equal length legs of a journey are far better than one long leg and one short one. If the entire world is conspiring against you, and you cannot get a non-stop flight, pick the one with the most equal durations of flying times and try to get a 2 hour layover. That’s enough to pee, stretch, eat, and not stress if your incoming flight is delayed. Also: it’s always better to fly in and out of larger airports as there’s far better food options.

Jeremy Cherfas

Jeremy Cherfas

How to discourage enterprise in the English countryside

1 min read

I have only seen one side of Nick Snelgar's dispute with his local planning authority but I have no reason to doubt what I've seen there. To me it seems indisputable that, no matter what politicians like Michael Gove may say, there is no real desire to allow small farmers to reform the farming and food landscape in England.

Jeremy Cherfas

In so many respects, marijuana is a mirror of food, as noted at the mothership https://www.jeremycherfas.net/blog/marijuana-goes-mainstream

Jeremy Cherfas

A late contender for the best thing about I have read all year. Michael Lewis's feature Made in the U.S.D.A. goes inside Trump’s cruel campaign against the U.S.D.A.’s scientists https://www.vanityfair.com/news/2017/11/usda-food-stamps-school-lunch-trump-administration

Jeremy Cherfas

According to one food writer, "dried chili peppers are grown in the Southwest and dehydrated onion and garlic are grown in California and Oregon" That's some impressive growing, right there.

Jeremy Cherfas

"Love” is not a common or usual name of an ingredient" I just love how the took Nashoba Brook Bakery to task. Because, truly, it is important to make sure that labels always tell the whole truth and nothing but the truth, right? https://www.foodpolitics.com/2017/10/fda-says-love-is-not-a-food-ingredient/

Jeremy Cherfas

At Vespertine, Jonathan Gold makes contact with otherworldly cooking. Is dinner for two worth $1,000?

[T]he sort of dining rooms that tend to do better on the World’s Top 50 Restaurants list than they do in the Michelin guide; the kitchens where the artistic imperatives of the chef tend to outweigh any questions of what a customer might want to eat; the meals after which a cynical diner, confronted with 20-plus courses of kelp, hemp and tree shoots, makes jokes about stopping for tacos on the way home.

Yeah. No.

Jeremy Cherfas

Probably something to do with food learning

1 min read

@nicolakidsbooks it is probably part of the same phenomenon that made my bubba's chicken soup such effective medicine. That is, the exact same food can become very positive or very negative depending on when in the sickness cycle you experience it. Eat a novel food just before you feel ghastly, and you may well be put off it for life. Eat it as you're on the mend -- and the return of appetite is always a good sign -- and you'll probably ascribe magical properties to it, and turn to it whenever you're feelibng a bit better after feeling awful. Constraints on learning and all that.

Jeremy Cherfas

Why the Price of Food has Nothing to do with the Price of Food – and why science has been corrupted, by Colin Tudge

My old mucker in fine form. To whit:

For in truth, the reasons why so many people in Britain cannot afford food that’s good and fresh has almost nothing to do with the cost of production; and the reasons farmers go bust has almost nothing to do with their supposed “inefficiency”; and the current obsession in high places with robots and GMOs and industrial chemistry is a horrible perversion of science and a huge waste of money which, in the end, is public money. Food is too expensive for more and more people in well-heeled Britain for three main reasons, none of which has anything directly to do with the cost of production, and none of which is alleviated by attempts to make production more “efficient” by sacking people, joining big farms into big estates, or festooning the whole exercize with high-tech. Attempts to mitigate rising prices in the short term by buying more from the world at large will only transfer misery elsewhere, as indigenous agricultures everywhere that evolved to serve the needs of their people are replaced by industrialized monocultures owned by corporates, to provide commodity crops for export.

Not that anyone who needs to is listening.

Jeremy Cherfas

Jeremy Cherfas

Jeremy Cherfas

Jeremy Cherfas

The cost of poor food safety practices: $36 million in two years. Which, of course, does not include the commonised costs imposed on the community.

Marion Nestle links to Dole's declarations as it prepares to go public. As ever, though, while the company may have to settle lawsuits and what have you, it does not contribute to the costs borne by those who succumb to food poisonning.

Jeremy Cherfas

The global trade resource is almost as fascinating as the changing global diets website, with one huge proviso. The arrows go, roughly, from the centre of the exporting country to the centre of the importing country. That is, it completely ignores the reality of containerisation, which has had such a massive impact on food systems and much else besides. There's a new podcast series about it, called Containers, by Alexis Madrigal.

Jeremy Cherfas

Lookout world food. @ColinKhoury talking about website on the podcast tomorrow.

Jeremy Cherfas

Interesting conversation with @_amanda_j_lee about food prices and nutrition in Australia http://www.eatthispodcast.com/australia-where-healthier-diets-are-cheaper

Jeremy Cherfas

I rather like the idea of a "food mirage". The Depressing Truth About Hipster Food Towns | Mother Jones http://www.motherjones.com/politics/2017/04/food-desert-mirage-gentrify-brooklyn-portland-groceries-...

Jeremy Cherfas

Pork safety in Vietnam: further evidence from @ILRI that eaters and officials worry about the wrong things https://news.ilri.org/2017/03/15/a-deep-dive-inside-vietnams-pork-foodshed-to-determine-food-safety-...